Growing up against a backdrop of economic uncertainty and a climate crisis, Gen Z is finding joy through the act of ‘chaotic customization.’ How should brands respond?
On this page
- Chaotic customization
- Glimmers of hope
- Should brands join in?
- Unique shelf life
- Key Takeaways
- Recommended
Published October 23, 2024
Coming of age amid global political tensions, economic uncertainty, and the intensifying climate crisis, Generation Z – the world’s largest demographic – faces a precarious future.
In response to the bleak macroeconomic landscape, the cohort is turning to small moments of everyday joy as a form of resistance. The shift is so pronounced that trend forecasting company WGSN has dubbed it “Glimmers,” a term that describes the search for “micro-moments of joy” that can “reframe thinking, foster calm, build resilience, and improve mental health.”
Coach’s not-so-secret weapon? Gen Z
One trend gaining momentum under the “glimmers” umbrella is “chaotic customization.” According to WGSN, the hyper-personalization and individualization of products has surged among Gen Zs over the past year, fueled by famous figures like Jane Birkin. It’s a movement that shows no signs of slowing, with WGSN’s projections pointing to continued growth well into 2026.
“This demographic values uniqueness and personal expression,” says Martina Rocca, Insight Strategist at WGSN. She adds that the demographic’s growing predilection for customised products “indicates a future where consumers expect more direct involvement in the ideation and design process.”
Chaotic customization has splintered into smaller, niche movements.
“It’s not a trend that is confined only to specific ‘aesthetics’ or subcultures, meaning that it has a much wider reach than many other trends,” says Katie Devlin, assistant fashion trends editor at intelligence firm Stylus.
Among these sub-trends is the “Birkinification” of bags, an aesthetic inspired by the late British actress and singer Jane Birkin’s famously unstructured purse, often papped with bulging contents and adorned with charms and scarves. A phenomenon propelled online, Zoomers are trying to replicate the actress’ iconic cluttered holdall; on TikTok, the term “Birkinifying bag” has garnered over 182.5 million posts.
Chaotic accessorizing has trickled through to China, where netizens regularly share their customized items – notably sneakers and phone cases – decorated with bows, pearls, ribbons, and charms on social apps like Xiaohongshu.
Across the mainland, excessively personalizing goods is less a trend and more a rite of passage into adulthood. Young Chinese consumers have long expressed a penchant for zhuzhing up their belongings, says Elsbeth Van Paridon, a Beijing-based Sinologist who looks at China through the lens of fashion and urban culture.
The trend’s origins can be traced back to the early 2010s, says Van Paridon, coinciding with the rise of mobile phones, which marked the beginning of a new era in customization and personalization. In recent years, it’s accelerated, thanks to localized movements like “dopamine dressing.”
“This generation is taking [customization] to new heights,” Van Paridon says. “I’m not even sure I would call it ‘chaotic,’ it’s more cheerful dressing than anything.”
The ascent of chaotic customization aligns with a growing disillusionment towards TikTok-driven microtrends. Movements like #MeCore and #HopeCore – narratives which encourage people to find joy and embrace authenticity – have surged this year, as consumers look to reclaim their individuality and break free from the algorithmic echo chamber.
Moreover, as luxury cost hikes price out younger shoppers, these decorative add-ons provide an accessible way to refresh wardrobes without splurging, says Stylus’ Devlin.
“At luxury level, kitschy novelty bags have been trending, but they’re of course expensive to the average consumer,” Devlin adds. “Charms and keychains from luxury brands act as great entry-level purchases that allow young, aspirational consumers to buy into luxury.”
In China, where the youth unemployment rate remains high, luxury spending is slowing, and Gen Z is rethinking the rat race, “chaotic customization” offers a small but meaningful outlet for self-expression in a challenging climate, says Van Paridon.
“Economic pressures remain high,” Van Paridon adds. “And what can make someone feel better than looking over to their bag on their desk or their shoes and seeing them covered in ribbons, which they likely handpicked or even created themselves?”
Gen Z’s high expectations are redefining luxury brands
The trend’s versatility offers brands multiple ways to chime with Gen Z. Recent runways suggest that luxury players are already putting their own spin on it.
Miu Miu, for instance, tapped the “Birkinification” craze for SS24 with its crammed shoulder bags, while Coach’s Fall 2024 collection featured “I heart NY” cups, mini yellow cabs, and even smaller handbags attached to oversized totes.
On the recent SS25 circuit, street-style photos were populated with accessories laden in badges, charms, and ribbons. In London, at Chopova Lowena – a brand known for its unfettered maximalism – shoes, socks and hair were decorated with metal hardware. In Paris, Caroline Hu’s collaboration with adidas Originals featured oversized bows affixed to the brand’s iconic SL72 and Superstar silhouettes.
It makes sense for brands to jump on board, says Devlin. The task, however, is to avoid being perceived as off-target.
“It’s paramount for brands to remember that the big appeal of this trend isn’t in specific charms, but more about the creative process of personalization and accessorization itself,” Devlin says.
One route, Devlin says, is for brands to play into the nostalgia element, pointing to Sonny Angels, friendship bracelets, and DIY crochet charms as examples.
Facing competition from the enduring appeal of “quiet luxury” and elevated basics, how much longer can the trend maintain relevance before waning?
Devlin believes that its connection to personal interests and protean nature gives it a unique staying power.
“It’s unusual for a viral trend to encourage this much individuality, which is undoubtedly part of its growing appeal,” she says. “There’s so much variety and personalisation at play here, and it’s not about one specific product.”